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FORD DROPPED AXLE
The Science Of Straight Axles – Traditional Tech
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tg28jFA2KZg
изменение высоты подвески
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq2YDYKlcG0
SPRING:
1) If you are trying to lower the front end of a significant amount, just in reverse arch front spring and remove the leaves, you may have a problem with the radius rods shares hitting the frame rails, especially on the stock steering box mounting bracket (it can be heated and bent for more gap without problems Saftey). With this solution you lower the front part, but sacrificed suspension. You can change the length of the axis of the rubber bump stops to limit the suspension travel to prevent the radius rods from hitting the frame, but it will "hit bottom at a considerable impact.
2) the advantage of thinner spring "package" you can gasket between the frame and the spring to get "your" desired ride height, or "look".
3) Another problem with this method of reduction in travel shock absorber. Lever action shocks will have a gun pointed "up the hill" if you reduce the shock link. Make sure that the tube shocks bottomed out in their travels. I had to go with the shorter shocks to correct this problem.
DROPPED axes:
1) I have used Bell, chassis engineering, Magnum and Mor-Drop the I-beam bridges. Everything is OK, depending on what you're doing. The most important thing from the bridge down to you to save a large part of the suspension. Depending on the number of "drop" you want, you can not have a tendency to arch the main front page. Removing a few leaves in the spring may be all that is necessary, first of all, to improve comfort. Do not forget to install the gasket (s) of the same thickness to that accepted so, your stock U-bolt clamp spring dense crossbar.
2) Magnum and Mor-Drop (shares since the end of the bridge is heated and reformed) is the stock perch pin (or radius rod mounting) distance. If you use a stock transfer, or just want to keep a stock of the radius rod mounts on the frame, this is the way. Why? Because the stock radius rods can remain the same length. Looking at the radius of the rods in the form of a triangle, none of the system must be changed. Axis "almost" bolt replacement. I even use the stock lever-action shocks and Sway Bar under my '40 Coupe.
3) Bell and Chassis Engineering (CE) have a reduced interval pin perch. This changes the size of the triangle radius rod and moves the position of turning the ball into the back of the car. If you do the engine, and then transfer model swap, a plan to use the split radius rod kit with these axes. They work great! In addition, it is planned for the spring shorter than the leaf, because the distance between the centers was reduced bracket.
Steering arms:
1) I have a heated steering wheel and bent arms, but not much, because it can damage the Ackerman geometry and other issues for security reasons.
2) I like to use a dropped steering arms made by each individual manufacturer axis. You should cut stock steering arms on the spindles to do this. But spindles in abundance, for all Hi-Tech Street Rodders installation Mustang II "stuff" in their cars and sell the "good old stuff." So, if you want to go back to the original one, pick up some parts at the flea market.
3) When you cut off the steering arms, I prefer to use a pair of '46-'48 later square back spindles, if you have access to them. Number 1) to use more spindles later kingpin, which I love. Number 2) after the right front spindle has a thrust coming from the bottom and pull the input from above. Kyphosis both input below. So, if I'm going to kill a couple of rounds for this swap, I prefer to use the square back. My personal preference.
TIE ROD and thrust:
1) I think the Magnum axle is about 1 "shorter from pin to pin. I think, CE and Bell even narrower. This hides the wheels and tires in a little to get the necessary clearance tires on the wing when turning.
2) Because I'm pretty frugal, I use the stock tie rod and drag link with Magnum swap wheels. Because kingpin distance decreases you have to cut an equal amount of traction. I cut off the right hand threaded tie rod end and rethread with the right hand taps, I bought a supply Travers. I reslit traction with a thick blade hacksaw or buzzing the wheel and set the clamp ring and tie rod end. Special cranes, you will not get it at Lowes and Home Depot! Costs about $ 10.
3) Because you only have to cut rod about 1/2 ", you can usually get that far out of the adjusting sleeve. This use of stock steering box.
SHOCK:
As I mentioned earlier, make sure the shock enough to travel, not to "bottom". I've used both of the lever and tube shocks. It's amazing how good old shocks a lever to work!
TIRES:
The best "hot rod look" I got it with 165/80R15 (26,5 "in diameter) by 5" wide rim on the front and P235/75R15 (29 "diameter) by 6" or 7 "rim on the back. If you use the stock spring in the rear you'll probably only be able to use a 6 "rim with a similar distance back to the original. Otherwise, the edge will contact the spring mounting bracket. In addition, you will have to heat and bend the arms stock shock to the frame, otherwise they hit the inner sidewall of the tire.
RECONCILIATION:
Let us assume that we all know what these terms mean. I run a 1/16 feet "to 1/8" with radial tires. Exceeding these replacement axles consistently correct, about 1 - 1.5 degrees positive. After removal of the front end down, as a rule, I have to adjust the caster back to 5 - 7 degrees positive. This "stuff" is not an exact science, and can be done in your "good" equipped garage at home. I will save the procedure on another day, if someone wants to know.
OVERALL:
For me, dropped front axle end is the best way to go. My car with this setup to handle large, trace the line and have a lot of comfort. My '40 pickup only from the spring, which was working well, but lacks the comfort of cars dropped axle. He planned for the axis changes in the future!
I had the old Fords with the Mustang II independent front ends and do not like them for different reasons. Sometime in the future I foresee hot rod parts suppliers sell kits to convert a Mustang II front of the old Ford to return to direct the front axle!
я их прикрепил к раме, и потом подумал, что они будут статичными, в тот момент когда у авто есть передняя подвеска!